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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.